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Editorial Review: Food, Inc. lifts the veil on our nation's food industry, exposing how our nation's food supply is now controlled by a handful of corporations that often put profit ahead of consumer health, the
livelihood of the American farmer, the safety of workers and our own environment. Food, Inc. reveals surprising and often shocking truths about what we eat, how it's produced and who we have become as a nation.
Q&A with Producer/Director Robert Kenner, Co-Producer/Food Expert Eric Schlosser, Food Expert Michael Pollan and Producer Elise Pearlstein
How did this
film initially come
about?
Kenner: Eric Schlosser
and I had been wanting to do a
documentary version of his book,
Fast Food Nation.Â
And, for one reason or another, it
didn't happen. By the time Food,
Inc. started to come together, we
began talking and realized that all
food has become like fast food, and all
food is being created in the same
manner as fast food.
How has fast food changed
the food we buy at the
supermarket?
Schlosser: The
enormous buying power of the fast food
industry helped to transform the entire
food production system of the United
States. So even when you
purchase food at the supermarket,
you’re likely to be
getting products that came from
factories, feedlots and suppliers that
emerged to serve the fast food
chains.
How many years did it take
to do this film and what were the
challenges?
Kenner: From when Eric
and I began talking, about 6 or 7
years. The film itself
about 2 ½ years.Â
It has taken a lot longer than we
expected because we were denied access
to so many places.
Pearlstein: When Robby brought me into the project, he was adamant about wanting to hear all sides of the story, but it was nearly impossible to gain access onto industrial farms and into large food corporations. They just would not let us in. It felt like it would have been easier to penetrate the Pentagon than to get into a company that makes breakfast cereal. The legal challenges on this film were also unique. We found it necessary to consult with a first amendment lawyer throughout the entire filming process.
Who or what influenced your
film?
Kenner: This film was
really influenced by Eric Schlosser and
Fast Food Nation, but then as
we were progressing and had actually
gotten funding, it became very
influenced as well by Michael Pollan
and his book
Omnivore’s
Dilemma.Â
And then, as we went out into the world, we became really incredibly influenced by a lot of the farmers we met.
What was the most surprising
thing you learned?
Kenner: As we set out
to find out how our food was made, I
think the thing that really became most
shocking is when we were talking to a
woman, Barbara Kowalcyk, who had lost
her son to eating a hamburger with E.
coli, and she’s now
dedicated her life to trying to make
the food system safer.
It’s the only way
she can recover from the loss of her
child. But when I asked her what she
eats, she told me she couldn't tell me
because she would be sued if she
answered.
Or we see Carol possibly losing her chicken farm … or we see Moe, a seed cleaner who’s just being sued for amounts that there’s no way he can pay, even though he’s not guilty of anything. Then we realized there’s something going on out there that supersedes foods. Our rights are being denied in ways that I had never imagined. And it was scary and shocking. And that was my biggest surprise.
So, what does our current
industrialized food system say about
our values as a nation?
Pollan: It says we value
cheap, fast and easy when it comes to
food like so many other things, and we
have lost any connection to where our
food comes from.
Kenner: I met a cattle rancher and he said, you know, we used to be scared of the Soviet Union or we used to think we were so much better than the Soviet Union because we had many places to buy things. And we had many choices. We thought if we were ever taken over, we’d be dominated where we’d have to buy one thing from one company, and how that’s not the American way. And he said you look around now, and there’s like one or two companies dominating everything in the food world. We’ve become what we were always terrified of.
And that just always haunted me – how could this happen in America? It seems very un-American that we would be so dominated, and then so intimidated by the companies that are dominating this marketplace.
How has the revolving door
relationship between giant food
companies and Washington affected the
food industry?
Pearlstein: We discovered that
the food industry has managed to shape
a lot of laws in their
favor. For example, massive
factory farms are not considered real
factories, so they are exempt from
emissions standards that other
factories face. A
surprising degree of regulation is
voluntary, not mandatory, which ends up
favoring the industry.Â
What have been the
consequences for the American
consumer?
Kenner: Most American
consumers think that we are being
protected. But that is not
the case. Right now the
USDA does not have the authority to
shut down a plant that is producing
contaminated meat. The FDA
and the USDA have had their inspectors
cut back. And
it’s for these
companies now to self-police, and what
we’ve found is, when
there’s a financial
interest involved, these companies
would rather make the money and be sued
than correct it.Â
Self-policing has really just been a
miserable failure. And I
think that's been really quite harmful
to the American consumer and to the
American worker.Â
Pearlstein: The food industry has succeeded in keeping some very important information about their products hidden from consumers. It’s outrageous that genetically modified foods don’t need to be labeled. Today more than 70% of processed foods in the supermarket are genetically modified and we have absolutely no way of knowing. Whatever your position, you should have the right to make informed choices, and we don’t. Now the FDA is contemplating whether or not to label meat and milk from cloned cows. It seems very basic that consumers should have the right to know if they’re eating a cloned steak.
Is it possible to feed a
nation of millions without this kind of
industrialized processing?
Pollan: Yes. There
are alternative ways of producing food
that could improve
Americans’
health. Quality matters as
much as quantity and yield is not the
measure of a healthy food
system. Quantity improves a
population’s health
up to a point; after that, quality and
diversity matters more. And
it’s wrong to assume
that the industrialized food system is
feeding everyone well or keeping the
population healthy.Â
It’s failing on both
counts.
There is a section of the
film that reveals how illegal
immigrants are the faceless workers
that help to bring food to our
tables. Can you give us a
profile of the average worker?
Schlosser: The typical farm
worker is a young, Latino male who does
not speak English and earns about
$10,000 a year. The typical
meatpacking worker has a similar
background but earns about twice that
amount. A very large
proportion of the
nation’s farm
workers and meatpackers are illegal
immigrants.
Why are there so many
Spanish-speaking workers?
Kenner: The same thing that
created obesity in this country, which
is large productions of cheap corn, has
put farmers out of work in foreign
countries, whether
it’s Mexico, Latin
America or around the
world. And those farmers
can no longer grow food and compete
with the U.S.’
subsidized food. So a lot
of these farmers needed jobs and ended
up coming into this country to work in
our food production.
And they have been here for a number of years. But what’s happened is that we’ve decided that it’s no longer in the best interests of this country to have them here. But yet, these companies still need these people and they’re desperate, so they work out deals where they can have a few people arrested at a certain time so it doesn’t affect production. But it affects people’s lives. And these people are being deported, put in jail and sent away, but yet, the companies can go on and it really doesn’t affect their assembly line. And what happens is that they are replaced by other, desperate immigrant groups.
Could the American food
industry exist without illegal
immigrants?
Schlosser: The food industry
would not only survive, but it would
have a much more stable
workforce. We would have
much less rural poverty.Â
And the annual food bill of the typical
American family would barely
increase. Doubling the
hourly wage of every farm worker in
this country might add $50 at most to a
family’s annual food
bill.
What are scientists doing to
our food and is it about helping food
companies’ bottom
line or about feeding a growing
population?
Schlosser: Some scientists are
trying to produce foods that are
healthier, easier to grow, and better
for the environment. But
most of the food scientists are trying
to create things that will taste good
and can be made cheaply without any
regard to their social or environmental
consequences.
I am not opposed to food science. What matters is how that science is used … and for whose benefit.
Can a person eat a healthy
diet from things they buy in the
supermarket if they are not buying
organic? If so, how?
Pollan: Yes, the supermarkets
still carry real food. The
key is to shop the perimeter of the
store and stay out of the middle where
most of the processed food lurks.
How are low-income families
impacted at the supermarket?
Kenner: Things are really
stacked against low-income families in
this country. There is a
definite desire of the food companies
to sell more product to these people
because they have less time,
they’re working
really hard and they have fewer hours
in their day to cook. And
the fast food is very reasonably
priced. Coke is selling for
less than water. So when
these things are happening,
it’s easier for
low-income families sometimes to just
go in and have a quick meal if they
don’t get home until
10 o’clock at
night. At the moment, our
food is unfairly priced towards bad
food.
And, in the same way that tobacco companies went after low-income people because they were heavy users, food companies are going after low-income people because they can market to them, they can make it look very appealing.
What can low-income families
do to eat healthier?
Schlosser: As much as
possible, they can avoid cheap,
processed foods and fast
foods.Â
It’s possible to eat
well and inexpensively. But
it takes more time and effort to do so,
and that’s not easy
when you’re working
two jobs and trying to just to keep
your head above water. The
sad thing is that these cheap foods are
ultimately much more expensive when you
factor in the costs of all the health
problems that come later.
Pollan: It’s possible to eat healthy food on a budget but it takes a greater investment of time. If you are willing to cook and plan ahead, you can eat local, sustainable food on a budget.
If someone wanted to get
involved and help change the system,
what would you suggest they do?
Pearlstein: I hope people
will want to be more engaged in the
process of eating and shopping for
food. We have learned that
there are a lot of different fronts to
fight on this one, and people can see
what most resonates with
them. Maybe
it’s really just
“voting with their
forks†–
eating less meat, buying different
food, buying from companies they feel
good about, going to farmers
markets.
People can try to find a CSA – community supported agriculture – where you buy a share in a farm and get local food all year. That really helps support farmers and you get fresh, seasonal food. On the local political level, people can work on food access issues, like getting more markets into low income communities, getting better lunch programs in schools, trying to get sodas out of schools. And on a national level, we’ve learned that reforming the Farm Bill would have a huge influence on our food system. It requires some education, but it is something we should care about.
What do you hope people take
away from this film?
Schlosser: I hope it opens
their eyes.
Kenner: That things can change in this country. It changed against the big tobacco companies. We have to influence the government and readjust these scales back into the interests of the consumer. We did it before, and we can do it again.
Pollan: A deeper knowledge of where their food comes from and a sense of outrage over how their food is being produced and a sense of hope and possibility of the alternatives springing up around the country. Food, Inc. is the most important and powerful film about our food system in a generation.
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